Two fifths of the way through our journey and we have finally landed where we’ve all been longing to go; the Golden Coast of California. And boy was it worth the wait! The Californians say that if the colonists had first landed in California, Virginia would still be a swamp and I can completely understand why. We can just imagine how the pioneers felt; slogging their way across the Midwest plains, battling the desert heat, dodging the arrows and bullets en route, climbing through the San Gabriel mountains and then, finally, descending into the lush, fertile plains of California to witness the pacific ocean glinting in the distance. Pure bliss!
Unfortunately, our day didn’t quite start as it does in the screenplays. We woke up to a thick, heavy fog that slowly lifted to a miserable and overcast sky. For the first time on our trip we contemplated long trousers for the day and took a risk by sticking with shorts. The meteorologist promised sunshine would soon break through but the children and I were not convinced. However all was not lost, we needed to spend the morning doing chores and they could only be done comfortably under grey skies. First stop was the rangers’ station to find out where we could stock up on camping supplies and find a sensibly priced supermarket.
Having ticked both boxes we decided to drive back into Malibu; it’s a 7 mile scenic road that follows the creek through a spectacular canyon the water has carved out over the past million years or so . More importantly, the road was also the setting for the key murder scene in The Postman Always Rings Twice.
Downtown Malibu looks a little past its best but is still the address of choice for the movers and shakers of the entertainment world; mostly in the huge estates that are tucked away on ranches high up in the mountains. In 1993 Barbra Streisand generously donated hers to the Santa Monica Mountains Conservancy for use as a botanical preserve. (True to form Ronald Reagan sold his to the state park). We parked up the car and walked along HWY1 (a beach walk was out of the question as most of it is private!) until we reached Malibu Lagoon State Park where the Creek ends in a glorious lake, currently home to hundreds of pelicans and Canada geese. We called into Malibu Pier, a shining example of a US 50s-style fishing pier, most famously used in the Rockford Files, and spent a small fortune on über cool magnets in the v. trendy end-of-pier store. We were tempted to buy a gorgeous pink dog collar for Missi, featuring VWs and surfboards, but decided we wouldn’t be able to eat for the rest of the week if we did.
The sun began to shine so we decided to hit Surfrider Beach. We were without costumes and towels so the boys decided to strip down to their pants and bathe in the lagoon. In true Californian, laissez-faire style this was completely acceptable. It would probably have resulted in a 911 call in Va. Beach! Just 24-hours into this state and we have already noticed how much more liberal the West Coast is. We weren’t greeted by a long list of dos and don’ts at the campsite, we’re allowed to drink beer next to our tent, we’ve seen a thong on the beach (no, it wasn’t a Dutchman) and a naked man in the carpark! It’s a huge breath of fresh air after spending two years living under the Virginian dictatorship.
After a couple of hours spent dozing on the sand, watching the lazily cool longboarders and enjoying the spectacle of a camera-carrying, remote control helicopter filming the surfers, we decided to head back to the campsite for more blackjack and a curry supper. Unfortunately, real life paid a call and I had to spend several hours filling in a ridiculously long application form for the Devon Return to Teaching course which I actually have to pay for. Still, needs must – we’ve got to pay for this trip somehow or other.
Today’s Tune: Surfin’ USA by The Beach Boys
Wildlife Watch: The gopher snake caught by the ranger outside the shower block. Yikes!
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