Day 22: Monterey, California

The children started the day with a swim in the heated pool (not pink, surprisingly) and Mark and I caught up on finances and blogs. We headed into San Luis for a traditional Sunday brunch and then drove up HWY1, along the Big Sur coast, all the way to Monterey. We decided to avoid the Hearst Castle due to lack of time and several disappointing USA house tours (they always seem to be run like something out of a concentration camp).

The Big Sur scenery more than made up for it. HWY1 was finally cut through the 5,000ft high cliffs rising from the Pacific Ocean in 1937 after 20 years of convict labour and several fatalities. It’s California’s first scenic route and is an incredible drive. Luckily we were tackling it in the northern direction so I managed to bag the cliff side seat. The land has resisted development but there are several villages along the route and some some breathtaking houses literally perched on the cliff edge. The road is narrow, twisting and, on a Sunday afternoon, packed with sluggish traffic. There were many signs of rock falls, mud slides and brush fires along the way. Our scariest moment was when we stopped to take pictures at a viewpoint on the outside of a blind curve. Just as we were snapping away an MR2 came shooting down the road and slammed on his brakes because of the curve; the car span out of contro

l into the opposite lane, skirting the cliff edge and, miraculously, regained control to carry on round the bend. Mark and I were still recovering our nerves when the car reappeared in the opposite direction, pulled over and the driver calmly got out to admire the view. That was one lucky 19-year-old!

We pulled into Monterey late afternoon and, after unloading the car and doing yet more washing, drove off in search of the aquarium and something to eat. Heading north, the temperature had dropped considerably, the wind had picked up and the fog was rolling in so layers and layers of clothes were necessary. He shivered our way round Fishermans’ Wharf and opted for an Italian fish supper with a view of the sea lions and one sea elephant whilst we ate!
Today’s Tune: Big Sur by Mason Jennings (a mate of Jack Johnson)
Wildlife Watch: Californian sea lions